My husband and I are currently in our 3rd live in flip. We planned to put wood look tile throughout the bottom floor. We bought the house off market from a couple who started the reno and got in over their heads.
One thing they did was diy stain the concrete slab after they ripped up the original hardwood I could slap them. In looking into prep for the tile, everything we are seeing says we need to sand down the slab until we get off ALL the stain. This is a huge, and obviously messy, job we were not anticipating having to do. Rustoleum has an epoxy for garage floors that used to require sanding if the concrete was previously stained or painted I wonder if something like that or that exact product would work?
Then see if there are enough commonalities, if the chemistry is right, then call the product lines and ask a lot of questions once you have the right details. Alyssa K. This is used to seal walls before applying tile. It has a very good adhesion as well. Possibly this could be used to help with adhesion. If the floor is only stained I don't see why a good etching with acid wouldn't open the concrete pools again as well for the mortar to stick.
If the floors have a clear coat no matter what you put on top its only going to bond as strong as the clear coat bonds to concrete so it may need to be removed. You can test clear coat adhesion by scoring an X in the floor then placing gorilla tape or similar over the X and see if anything pulls up. Keely Aldinger. One other thing there is also primer stucco guys use to get stucco to adhere over painted surfaces.
I'm not sure what it's called but call a stucco supply store I'm sure they could help. Thank you! I appreciate it! Craig Parsons the concrete does have a clear coat, but not a good one by any means. Well that stinks. Could you possibly clean it off with razor style floor scrapers?
Once you get the clear off your world of options rises. Craig Parsons I think it could certainly be possible, we have a floor scrapper so I can try that this evening.
Do you by chance know of a solvent that we could apply that would help break down or dissolve the clear coat? If we were able to get the clear coat off, that would be sufficient to allow the mortar to stick? You could try Jasco paint remover but that is a bit messy especially for expectant mothers. That's why I think scraping is preferable. You could also rent a floor sander for the hard spots with 36 grit paper should make short work if it as well.
Craig Parsons thanks so much for your time and suggestions! Honestly, I would just go with the LVP. Removing the clear coat and any residue left behind will be a giant pain.
You may not get it all, which means you will likely have tile popping loose in the future. If the kitchen cabinets are IKEA, the toe kick should be removable. Pop is off, run the LVP underneath. The rip the toe kick down and pop it back on. If you need to you can add a shoe mold to cover up the gap at the bottom. Waaayyyy less headache than removing the coatings from the concrete. Do two coats of that: it's a bit expensive, but it will save you money in the end. Tile over that when the membrane dries using a good modified mortar -- looking at Home Depot's line of Custom mortars, I would stay away from something like VersaBond here and go with the more expensive FlexBond for this application.
The only realistic exception to this advice would be if you have big cracks all over this concrete slab -- but if you had anything sizable enough to worry about, you probably would have mentioned it already.
I agree. If the prep work isn't done properly, the tile will pop up and that is really bad. I don't think wood look tile is any more premium than a good quality LVP. You will also find LVP is more comfortable to walk and stand on, which is important in a kitchen. As mentioned, a molding should cover for expansion and contraction. Custom building products and mapei both offer a pre-tile primer.
I believe it is designed to adhere to non porous surfaces like old tile or in your case sealed concrete and allow you to tile over the surface. The records below may not pertain to the individual that you're looking for, and may or may not pertain to the same charge.
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